This is a swatch reformed from the Susanna Lewis book (original punchcard design page 223) to an automatic electronic pattern which increases &and decreases the side automatically. I've gone through the process 3 times and haven't found out why there is a fault in the side edging after a full repeat (on the other- plain side) Maybe I need to get away from it for a while to get a better perspective on the problem. Just looking just now at the first row I think I can spot an irregularity in theDesign.
The graph for the handmanipulated (doublebed) F+F below is the same as the Brother Swatches in the Slideshow of the same name. I would like to make it clear that all the patterns were converted from handknitting in both "DK7's Lace Tool and the Brother lace cartridge " for doublechecking. Downloaded to the PPD then uploaded back separated to DK7's (LaceTool) where the gartercarriage rows were added to the graphs and the .pat files including "Input" for background-0 lace-1 knit rows-2 and garter-3 saved, so that the Brother KM has all the necessary info in it's window as one knits along. Not forgetting that the Garter Carriage does NOT preselect!
This proves that all FF laces no matter how many holes they contain. Fern=4, Feather and Fan=6, Peacock=8 or multiple hole as in the red or yellow samples of wave laces can all be done in either DK7's Lace Tool or Brother Lace Cartridge. Most handtooled laces can thus be converted.
It's up to the knitter whether they want to Transfer all sts. to Backbed, straight after having done the handmanipulations or knit one row first on the front bed and then use the garter carriage U100 -transfer to back bed and knit 5or 6 rows ? When done, use the transfer carriage again to move all sts. to the Front bed and repeat the process as often as you like, changing colours as often as you wish !
It's a faster process than using a Brother KM(lace C) & it's Garter carriage for the actual knitting. Admittedly it's worryfree and can be preprogrammed, but waiting
for the GC (turtle) to finish knitting or purling, before changing yarns can be a pain.........
This is a special for Passap or Superba machines using either an U 80 or U-100 Or for the Superba, the special garter carriage.
For transferring all sts, from Front to Back beds then reverse
An older automatic edging which is a bit quirky in that
it doesn't behave the same way on different machines.
One of the last Brother Laces.
Still working on it as I feel the
outside edge is not wide enough!Guess this will have to wait until I really need an automatic edging.
Finally managed to do the pattern for the Empisal Leaf edging so they both face in either direction. Sorry I forgot to add that all these edgings were done fully automatically by the Lace carriage and the knitcarriage. All the information for the increases and decreases are contained in the .pat file!
If there were any handtransfers,manual increases or decreases used, then I would NOT consider these edgings 'automatic'!
Yellow MKed , no purl rows inserted, as it was purely a test from the handknit red swatch,if you look closely you will notice that there are 4 sts. reduced onto ONE needle in the centre. Pretty but somewhat difficult to knit on the machine.
To offset or not? Some Lace Patterns lend themselves very well to Offsetting and improve when thus handled, yet amazingly some offsetting becomes detrimental to the general look and appeal of the changes. The Webshot Slideshow of changed patterns from the Stitchworld 940 book is a good example of patterns which have benefitted by being offset, yet the reverse can be said for other patterns. Showing are 2 examples of a handlace-converted pattern, which I did in both versions. The comparisons speak for themselves!
4th row of Lace knitting will select 1st row of Fairisle needles, PARK LC at left-off bed!
engage MB carriage on rightt side KC II knit 2 rows, PARK on right side.
Make sure the carriage is parked on the right rails, then start at left with Lace carriage.........
At NO time should both carriages be on the bed simultaneously!
Finally feel just a bit better (at least I am able to sit for a while
with the help of painkillers)
So have tried to make a couple more pat files & knit the swatches.
Just to show how one can use a Pattern from the Stitchworld book (930-940)
& add the Fairisle component to it.
I personally prefer these type of small patterns as they lend themselves
better for this type of combinations (if one looks at the back one can see
the small floats of col.2).
On the previous theme of Lace & Fairisle; I did convert another Lace Handknit to MK-ing, but this pattern really does not lend itself to what I wanted to achieve. In order to make it look reasonable the floats would have been too long (my pet hate).
So this one gets shelved & I'd rather use it as it is or "offset" photo at side---------------->
Or maybe it's just me, not thinking clearly at the moment due to a bad Flu.
The overlapp can be made more pronounced by knitting a couple of extra rows on the main bed. A friend's question hopefully answered.
A slightly overlapping Pintuck is required, I have done somethig similar a few years ago on a golfshirt collar, but this did not overlapp, just stopped the collar ends from curling under. Here is the Test swatch.
Current test for a small overlapp of the pintuck. tan col. swatch at top.
Just for fun, a comparison of 2 old Fern-lace patterns & the different ways they can be programmed &still achieve the same result the swatch shows them knitted in one piece. These patts. can be used as an overall design or just 3-4 repeats for an horizontal edging. There are sooo many various scalloped edgings around, from the small ones to very large ones.
Remember that for Mylars or punchcards, the patt.graphs need to be flipped horizontally.
This is also the way a PPD Multicol. cartridge will save a pixel per pixel Stitchpattern; it downloads to the machine as doublelength A-separation=see right graph below.
This elongated graph can be knitted as A or B-sep. jacquard.
C-separation -below------ A-separation or dbl-length
Click on pics to enlarge!
This is the setup + 2xLength on KM, above is the separation.
When DK shows that many errors, I will rather use Knitjac separations or C-separation for a more textured fabric, by using plain knit on ribber & a Combination of Sliptuck or tuckslip on the Main Bed.
The main separations I use for my Brother Jacquards are B Snadwich or default separation. C-separation (singlerow separation) which starts at the other end of the bed for preselection of needles & requires the use of the elongation button on the machine. A-separation, which must be basically a doublelength pattern- as in capture of -2cjq-dbllength-jpg file. And F-separation which is an every other row separation method.
Captures of the separated graphs follow on top.
Mostly I use the KnitJac separations (a small program) written by a spanish engineer for his machineknitting wife; it's a combination of changing colsequences & elimination or insertion of extra rows to enable faultless representation of a pattern as in an original patternpicture.